Timing Advance Instructions

Tools & parts you will need:
  1. 4.7k ohm, 1/2 watt resistor (included)
  2. Plastic zip tie
  3. electrical tape*
  4. plastic grocery bag*

Expect approximately 5 minutes

*These are optional items.

 

What Does It Do?:   This mod will modify your stock ECU with a Timing Advance Resistor. This resistor connects to the car's ECU by replacing the Intake Airflow Temperature (IAT) Sensor. Once the resistor is installed, the ECU will read that the air coming in is 57 °F (4.7k resistor = 57 °F)** think of it as a "default" setting on the ECU. When the ECU reads this, it leans out the air/fuel mixture, in other words it will take in more air,and then add more fuel to compensate for the extra air coming in which produces more power by advancing the timing 1 to 2 degrees Because the engine is creating more power it will need more fuel so the fuel economy will sometimes drop 1 to 2 (MPG) if you are really on it but definately not more than 2. 
 
** When you are in an environment where the intake air temperature is below 57 °F the 4.7k resistor modification will not benefit your cars performance, The higher the resistance the colder it reads the air is, for better performance in colder temperatures (see chart at bottom of page)  

Preface:  Before you start into this install be sure you understand how.  Make sure you know where the (IAT) sensor is, all cars have different locations so check your owners manual, chiltons manual or other type of repair manual for your make and model car.

 Reminder:  Make sure you have the keys out of the ignition.  Why?  When you remove the sensor from the air box lid assembly and throttle body you do not want to start the car.  You will set the Service Engine Soon (SES) light if you do start the car with the sensors removed.  You can easily reset the SES light by following these steps:

1.  Turn key to the "on" position but don't start car
2.  Pull the PCM BAT and PCM IGN fuses in engine compartment
3.  Wait approximately 5 minutes
4.  Turn ignition off
5.  Replace fuses
6.  Start the car and the make sure the light has went off

1.  Make sure your car is NOT running.  Open the hood of your car and look in the front and center of the engine compartment.  Locate the intake-air-temperature (IAT) sensor wire harness (see blue arrow in Figure 1)

Figure 1

2.  Disconnect the wire harness from the IAT sensor (see Figure 2).  Gently pull the tab out and lift the sensor out of the housing.  

Figure 2

3.  Take your resistor and shape it in the form of the letter "U" (see Figure 3).

Figure 3

4.  Locate the tiny receptacles located in the IAT wire harness (see blue arrows in Figure 4).

Figure 4

5.  Place one end of the resistor into one slot on the intake air temperature (IAT) wire harness receptacle (see Figure 5).  The receptacles are metal and appear sliver in Figure 5 below.  Do the same with the other end of the resistor and place it into the other IAT wire harness receptacle.  The resistor will get deformed and probably appear squished.  This is ok and not a problem.

Figure 5

6.  Bend the resistor over then against the wire harness as shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6

7.  If you plan on leaving this modification on your car when you drive around town, now is a good time to seal up the IAT wire harness (that has your resistor) and the IAT sensor (on the air box lid) using a small piece of a plastic grocery bag and electrical tape.  If you plan to run this modification at the drag strip only than you will be just fine leaving everything the way it is right now.  You might want to tape the resistor down to be sure it does not fall out.  We have never had any problems with it falling out.  Of course, there is always a first time and the drag strip is the last place you want to see the service engine soon (SES) light come on.

8.  You want to make sure that the wire does not fall down and get caught up in your belt or pulley's.  We suggest using a plastic zip tie to hold the wire up.  We tied ours down through the tab on the wire harness and around the IAT sensor housing (see Figure 7).  Obviously we do not have the ends sealed up.  This is because we run this modification at the track only. 

Figure 7

Gains range per vehicle and are usually between 5 to 20hp
 

The Mod I include is a 4.7k resistor which reads 57 degrees which is a good timing advance and power boost without overdoing it, i have heard from other people who use 10k resistors but you need to run higher octane gas with the higher resistance. The good part is that it's easy to change between resistors when you want to change the power.

below are the temperature and resistance readings.

This is quoted from the Chiltons Manual

First colom is degrees in farhenheit,

 second colom is resistance in ohms.

-40     77k-109k
-20     39k-53k
0       21k-27k
20      11k-15k
40      6.6k-8.4k
60      3.9k-4.5k
80      2.4k-2.7k
100     1.5k-1.7k
120     .98k-1.1k
140     .65k-.73k
160     .43k-.48k
180     .30k-.33k
200     .22k-.24k
220     .16k-.17k
248     .10k-.11k
284     .06k-.68k

I kept everything in terms of Kilo-ohms....so obvously
.65k is 650 ohms, .06k is 60 ohms, etc.  as you get down to the
decimals numbers begin to get rounded to the nearest hundreth (.0x)